The SS27 menswear season begins on 16 June, and what the schedule reveals (across Florence, Milan, Paris and the couture ateliers) is a fashion calendar in an unusually unsettled, interesting state: new designers arriving at old houses, labels crossing into unfamiliar territory, and at least one first-ever moment at almost every stop.
Florence and Milan: the SS27 menswear season opens in Italy
Pitti Immagine Uomo 110 runs from 16 to 19 June, and the guest designer slot this season goes to Simone Rocha, marking not only her first show outside London but her first men’s-only runway. The world’s largest menswear fair, which has long functioned as a kind of theatre for the possibilities of tailoring and craft, is a pointed choice of venue for that debut. Joining her in Florence will be Noir Kei Ninomiya, alongside Copenhagen label Sunflower, which presents a one-off runway produced as a collaboration between Pitti Uomo and Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Milan Fashion Week Men’s follows immediately, running from 19 to 23 June. The session opens with indie designer Martin Quad on day one, with Dolce & Gabbana following on day two, their first runway since Stefano Gabbana stepped down as chairman earlier this year. Satoshi Kuwata brings Setchu to the schedule on Saturday, and Simon Cracker follows last season’s debut with a sophomore outing for the sustainable upcycling label. Prada, whose last menswear show generated wide attention for its stained shirts and disintegrating jackets, returns as one of the week’s most-watched collections. Saul Nash makes it four consecutive Milan shows, while Thom Browne makes his Milan Fashion Week debut on Monday afternoon.
Paris: Saint Laurent returns, and a prize-winner makes his debut
The headline from Paris Fashion Week Men’s (which runs 23 to 28 June) is the return of Saint Laurent to the official menswear schedule. Anthony Vaccarello had, for some years, chosen to stage his seasonal men’s show during Couture Week rather than the menswear calendar, the logic being, allegedly, that more A-list names are in Paris at that later point. The decision to return to the men’s schedule proper is its own kind of statement about where the house sees itself.
Also on the first day of PFW Men’s: Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton, and the BA show for Institut Français de la Mode. Dior returns for Jonathan Anderson’s third menswear show; Michael Rider makes his debut men’s catwalk at Celine; Issey Miyake and Dries Van Noten both feature. Later in the week, Rick Owens shows on Thursday afternoon, Willy Chavarria returns to Paris on Friday, and Kiko Kostadinov takes a Saturday morning slot. The 2025 LVMH Prize winner Soshi Otsuki makes his Paris Fashion Week debut this season, bringing what the prize jury responded to (his award-winning slouchy suits) to an international schedule for the first time.
Couture Week: debuts, returns and a first for Standing Ground
The Haute Couture shows for AW26 run from 6 to 9 July. Schiaparelli opens proceedings on Monday morning, returning after its exhibition at the V&A in London this March. Iris Van Herpen, whose own exhibition opened at the Brooklyn Museum in May, is also back on the schedule. Jonathan Anderson follows his men’s show with a second appearance of the week, presenting a Dior couture collection on Monday. Matthieu Blazy presents his sophomore collection for Chanel on Tuesday.
The couture week moment that will attract the most attention from outside the usual circuit may be Irish designer Michael Stewart, whose Standing Ground label presents its first-ever Haute Couture show. A graduate of the Royal College of Art, Stewart has shown four ready-to-wear collections at London Fashion Week; the couture calendar represents a different order of ambition entirely.
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Duran Lantink debut their first couture collections for Balenciaga and Jean Paul Gaultier respectively, two arrivals that have been anticipated since both appointments were announced. Robert Wun closes the week under particular scrutiny: his brand drew wide attention after he dressed eight attendees, including Beyoncé, at this year’s Met Gala, making the couture collection that follows something of a first real test of the house’s ambitions at that level.
